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New York: Overwhelmingly not Perth

perthny

Wading through bustling crowds in the middle of Manhattan on my second day in New York, I couldn’t help but long for home.

Perhaps it was the 26 hours of flying? It might have been the sheer volume or the attitude of some of people, or even my initial misadventures of the train system (these continue and will probably do so until I come home), but the big city felt like it was going to swallow me whole and feed my remains to the subway rats.*

The first day, having set out to reach Manhattan Island, I inadvertently took a walking tour of the Bronx – lovely in its own right but the opposite direction to where I needed to be. I’ve since repeated this mistake, most recently at 2 in the morning after returning from a trip out of town to view several thousand pumpkins pretty late at night. I’ll elaborate on that experience another time.

Everybody is different, but I’ve found the key to enjoying New York (and I really am – go Cubs!) as a solo traveller to be accepting that you’re not going to fit and watching it all go by.

Below is a list of unexpected observations I’ve made from doing just that. See below.

NY vs brunch:

Honestly from what I’ve heard come out of the mouths of passers-by it feels like brunch is almost as contentious an issue for New Yorkers as the upcoming election. Signs at restaurants and corner stores around the city emphasise its presence and everything I’ve read online suggest it to be one of New York’s greatest assets. However, the word on the street states otherwise. I’ve overheard three conversations about brunch, all of which had negative undertones. One guy walking home from an ice hockey game was frustrated by brunch because it threw out the balance between breakfast and lunch. One young professional on the subway hated brunch food but liked the idea of being able to drink in the day (??).

“Fuck hollandaise,” she proclaimed loudly on the train. Her friends/colleagues/train peers concurred, and a half-baked apology to anyone who didn’t share her views within earshot seemed to fall on deaf, anti-brunch ears.

I’m going to go for brunch on the weekend and explore this phenomenon in more depth. Stay tuned.

Sport sport sport sport:

New Yorkers seem from the outside to have a really insular pride in what their city stands for and what it means to live in New York. Nowhere does this manifest itself more prominently than in the passionate support of sport fans living in the big city. It’s near impossible to board a train without coming across a Yankees hat, a Mets shirt or a Rangers beanie, and while I’m sure there are plenty (probably several million) people living in New York with no interest in sport, these people are understandably harder to spot.

I’m doing a Rangers game tomorrow and a Nets game on election day. Is Linsanity still a thing? Are some sports greater than others? I’ll probably gain some more insight into these pressing matters over the coming days.

Cultural diversity:

Maybe I was ignorant coming in, but from the outside New York comes across far more culturally diverse than I ever expected. Entire neighbourhoods, including the one I’m staying in, are essentially multi-lingual, and significant communities of people from all over the world have built lives for themselves in the Big Apple. It’s really impressive, and unlike anything I’ve really seen in any other major city I’ve visited. I don’t know how a wall would impact that but I can’t imagine it would help.

I’m enjoying New York from the outside, and despite a lack of real conversation I figure that’s where I’d like to stay. There’s so much more to write but this is already at 650+ words, so I’ll save it for the coming week. Thanks for reading.

*Rat City: I was keeping a tally of the amount of rats and squirrels I saw but then I went into the subway at night and couldn’t even count all of the rats. They’re physically huge as well. It’s comforting to know there’s plenty of support around should some adolescent turtles happen to find themselves exposed to chemicals and mutated.

On the other end of the spectrum I’ve seen three squirrels so far. Hoping Central Park will help balance the ledger slightly in the coming days.

Don’t bother

bee-halloween

I’m sitting in a coffee shop right now on the corner Bushwick Avenue and Cornelia Street in Brooklyn feeling as undead as the decorations on every second home in the area.

Jet lag is very real. I’ve not slept properly since 5am Friday morning (Perth time), but that’s a more than fair trade-off all things considered. New York is also very real.

Below are my very tired first impressions of Bushwick:

There are so many dogs around and pumpkins with faces carved in. All of the dogs and pumpkins are of varying size and style. A big dog walked past before. I’d say the pumpkins are 98 per cent seasonal.
I went for a walk down the Brooklyn Broadway thing beneath the J Line of the Subway, and everything here seems as real as it’s portrayed in the media. It’s pretty diverse culturally from what I can tell, which is pretty neat.
I made my first friend while I was eating lunch – his name is Strawberry and he’s a New York Knicks fan. He sang the same three songs when he was in church when he was younger, and proceeded to sing all of these in my general direction. Then he sang that Temptations song My Girl over and over until staff at the restaurant joined in. I wish I’d engaged more conversation and taken a photo of this guy but I was a bit sleepy with it at that point.
The coffee here is cheaper but not quite as good as in Perth, but I’m basing that on two experiences so far. There’s also a wasp in the coffee shop but no one seems too concerned. Maybe it’s the house wasp? Maybe it’s a Halloween decoration?
There’s some great street art happening. I’ll take some pictures to prove it at some point.

That’s probably about as much as I can write right now. I wanted this post to read as incoherent and scattered as my head feels in this moment, so here it at. Will do better in future hopefully thank you for reading anyway.

The three week window

Two-hundred-and-fifty-nine days have passed since I booked this trip to the United States, and only six remain before it becomes a reality.

When I booked the sole plan was to visit Mac DeMarco and write a great story worthy of peoples’ time. I’ll always hold out hope for the DeMarco plan, but at this stage it seems far more likely to be a three-week stay in NYC.

Fortunately for anyone travelling to this part of the world there never seems to be any shortage of things to do, but this particular trip coincides with some pretty cool events which I’ve detailed below.

Halloween, October 31

The spo0o0o0o0o0okiest time of the year, and while it’s kind of a small deal in Perth I’m told New York goes all out for Halloween. I’m a little stuck for costume ideas and likely to be extremely jet-lagged, but it’s still shaping up to be the realest Halloween ever.

Early costume ideas – Clippy from Microsoft Word; the dancing pumpkin from that viral video; Bookface; Australian. All so spooky.

New York Comedy Festival, November 1-6

I had no idea when I booked the trip, but there are some world class acts taking to the stage for New York Comedy Festival. I managed to get a ticket to a returned soldiers’ benefit featuring Bruce Springsteen, Jerry Seinfeld, Louis CK and Jon Stewart on the same bill at Madison Square Garden. It’s going to be the most patriotic, American thing ever and I really can’t wait to see it.

Seu Jorge David Bowie Tribute, November 12

The Life Aquatic is one of my favourite films, and the prospect of seeing Seu Jorge perform the soundtrack in tribute of David Bowie’s passing feels like one of those once-in-a-lifetime type deals. “Had Seu Jorge not recorded my songs in Portuguese I would never have heard this new level of beauty which he has imbued them with.” – Bowie. This is gonna be really cool.

Book, Oct 28-Nov 16

In spite of everything I just said I think the thing I’m most looking forward to is sitting somewhere and reading a book. The thought of being an anonymous person with plenty of time in a city of millions going about their day-to-day is real drawcard.

And of course…

The US Election, November 8

Say what you will about the candidates and all the rest, this is one of the biggest political
events the world has seen in quite some time and I’m really excited at the prospect of being in the States as America votes. I’ve spent the past four months trying to work out if it’s OK to ironically buy a Trump campaign hat as a souvenir. It’s a real ethical dilemma.

The other cool thing to come of the trip is this blog.

It’s been a while since I’ve been motivated enough to write in my spare time and I’m finding it really rewarding. Thanks to all of the people who have shown support so far, and I look forward to keeping you posted on the NYC happenings and beyond.

Liners

11102016172739-page-001 — Beauty may have killed the beast, but Airbnb killed the travel plans briefly

For the last few weeks I’ve been sleeping lightly, waiting for a post-bedtime email from Mac DeMarco and an invite to extend my US adventure to the west coast.

Last week the phone did go off after midnight. But it wasn’t Mac DeMarco and it wasn’t good news – my New York Airbnb, originally booked in March, had cancelled.

As someone who needs to be extra organised at all times to account for an unavoidable habit of losing personal belongings and stuttering through basic administrative tasks, losing the Airbnb was not a good situation to be in.

It was a sleep depriving bummer which set in motion a brief series of thoughts that ended in my being completely overwhelmed with the whole concept of the trip and everything around it.

Thankfully the thoughts were fleeting, the refund came +10% and the now-booked replacement Airbnb looks far nicer than the original.

Sometimes things work out and sometimes they don’t, but I’m getting a really good vibe from the newly locked in ‘Spacious Bushwick Room A’. The name says it all. It even has a built in wardrobe.

So while the room situation is sorted a little of the hesitation remains. I’m only there three weeks, for some it wouldn’t be a big deal but a few things are honestly weighing on the mind.

I’m not going to sit here and pretend these factors are going to get in the way of a fantastic trip – I’m sure they won’t – nerves are a part of the experience and a human thing which humans tend to do.

The following got me thinking hard:

Travelling solo

It’s not as though I’m going to get through the whole trip without having a conversation (measures in place to avoid this), but there are certain challenges in travelling alone.

How do I get in the photos I take if I’m the one who has to take them? Will someone steal my new camera if I ask them to take one for me? Will I ever be able to prove I was actually there? Does it matter? It probably doesn’t.

Sheer size

It feels kind of like the first day at a new primary school, except instead of 20-25 similarly aged kids wearing weird off-green blazers and scuffed up leather shoes it’s 8.4 million New Yorkers going about their lives.

From previous travels the reality of the situation is a lot like the first day at a new school – the nerves disappear pretty quick and all of a sudden you’re eating bagels and playing handball with the best of them.

For now it’s a little daunting. Working on some mad trick shots so they know I’m legit.

What if it’s not an amazing adventure?

Honestly the Mac stuff feels like a bit of a long shot now but I’m sure I’ll find things to make it so. It was never really about that anyway. Will keep manically checking my sleeves until I find something else up there.

There’s a few more things but I’m backing these to clear in the two weeks before blast off.

PS: The WA state library does free scanning if you’re ever in need.

Dogs and a plane

doggo-fixed

*Disclaimer: sport stuff*

They say every dog has its day, but until this weekend there were surely some long-suffering Western Bulldogs fans wondering whether there was any truth to the phrase.

In breaking its 62-year premiership drought on Saturday, Footscray captured the hearts of millions of neutral footy fans like myself, watching on because I suppose that’s just what people do on Grand Final day.

I can only imagine what it would actually mean to the die-hard fans, many of whom have waited their entire lives to see the Bulldogs play in a Grand Final, to watch their club finally bring home the cup again.

For the players and their families – the club has a high ratio of second generation footballers – it might well be the ultimate experience.

These are people who have dedicated blood, sweat, tears and all of the other sporting clichés to the cause of a club which until Saturday had just one success to show for some 90 years of history.

Sport doesn’t make sense to a lot of people, and fair enough. Remove the emotion and the narrative of the experience and you’re left with a field full of people chasing a ball around for two hours.

The beauty of the 2016 Grand Final was the absolute strength of the narrative – even those who don’t understand the allure of sport might have felt something other than boredom in watching it.

It was remarkable, and a reminder of why people choose to play the game despite all the running and jumping and skills required.

Ten years ago I was actually lucky enough to play in a junior football premiership with a bunch of really talented people who are no doubt as proud as I am at this point.

I haven’t kicked a footy for about five years, and even if I had this day in 2006 is the closest I’ll ever get to playing in an AFL flag.

Fortunately the same doesn’t go for everyone in the team. Yesterday’s Norm Smith Medallist was also a 14-year-old kid running around in a Willetton jumper against Bull Creek-Leeming that day.

Watching Jason Johannisen carve up on the biggest stage of all was phenomenal, and testament to the years of hard work and sacrifice he’s put in in pursuit of his dreams.

Yesterday he led the Dogs to the least likely premiership of the modern era – a win for the ages from seventh on the ladder. It was no under-14s premiership but it sure came close.

I don’t usually bet to the point where I had to ask the man at the TAB for help filling out the piece of paper, but like many people I know I did have a bit of sentimental cash on Jason to win the Norm Smith.

The profit is more than enough to cover return flights between New York and LA, so if it happens I guess I’ll have JJ and his Doggies to thank.

Still no word on that front, though.

Mac’s moving curveball

roachy-2-diplodopest — Turns out I wasn’t the only one…

It wasn’t long after booking the trip to the states that I upped and left my apartment for greener pastures in Perth’s northern suburbs.

The move was a significant one – just 25 kilometres in distance but providing a greater, roach-free space to work in and towards my goal of meeting Mac DeMarco in New York in October.

Planning is what I’ve been doing in my spare time since – the trip has provided something significant to look forward to and proven a welcome distraction from all my other responsibilities.

HOWEVER, all the planning in the world couldn’t have accounted for the fact that DeMarco – an adult human in his own right – would also move house between booking the flights and setting off.

spanner-pizza

Turns out even famous people move house, and Mac’s move – a 4500-kilometre relocation from the east coast of the US to the west – probably has my move north of Perth’s surprisingly divisive Swan River covered in terms of significance.

With six weeks to go before boarding the plane to New York the move is a curveball which has left plenty to think about.

The options from here are as follows.

Option 1: Contact Mac, go to LA

Pros:

Could lock something ahead of time
Get to see another part of the US
Achieves what I set out to do at the start of the year
Would be a serious adventure
Generally more inclined to wear Chucks than Ballys

Cons:

Where do you start – I’ve sent an email?
Could be expensive and disruptive to the overall trip
Would only have a day or two to pull it off

Option 2: Make no contact, go to LA

Pros:

Would pretty much be the ultimate story if it came off
Adventure factor high
Get to see more of the US
Generally more inclined to wear Chucks than Ballys

Cons:

A casual 3.9 million people in LA. Wouldn’t know where to start.
Expensive, disruptive and pretty much impossible

Option 3: Stay in NY, visit the tenants at Mac’s old place

Pros:

Quirky, pretty neat if it works out
Fiscally responsible

Cons:

I have no idea who lives at the house, what if they don’t drink coffee?
Lack of physical Mac DeMarco
Generally more inclined to wear Chucks than Ballys

Option 4: Stay in New York, have a sensible holiday

Pros:

Fiscally responsible
Ample time to do self-guided Ghostbusters walking tour
Accommodation already locked in

Cons:

Significant lack of Mac DeMarco
Sensible
Still more inclined to wear Chucks than Ballys

At this stage option 1 is the preference. It was never the intention to make contact ahead of time, but the game has changed pretty significantly.

I’ll let you know.