Ceremonial swords and curried egg – a Hutt River story

Graeme Ernest Casley is many things – a tour guide, a handyman, a teacher – but never did the newest sovereign leader in Australia expect to stand where he does today.

Graeme, or Prince Graeme, in keeping with his official title, is the newly crowned sovereign of the Principality of Hutt River – a 70 square kilometre patch of farming land some 500km north of Perth which claims to have seceded from the Australian mainland in 1970 in protest of wheat quotas.

Despite never having received recognition from Australia or most other governments of its right to sovereignty, Prince Graeme’s father Prince Leonard has led Australia’s oldest micronation for 46 years.

It was Leonard who manouvered clauses of international law to protect what he saw as a blatant attempt to steal his land by the Western Australian government – and one stage going to the point of declaring war on the mainland. It was Leonard too who after a few years leading the Principality morphed the public image of he and his family. In the beginning they were farmers fighting for their right to land. After a few years they became royals, dishing out knighthoods and military honours to those deemed worthy of recognition and sporting ceremonial gowns on special occasions.

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Welcome to gown town

Like a real life Darryl Kerrigan, Prince Leonard’s legal battles have become something of WA folklore. But at 91 and with his health deteriorating rapidly, the founding father of Hutt River made the decision to abdicate his position and hand it over to his youngest son, 59. Today was a day for Prince Graeme – the new leader of the Principality of Hutt River.

With inaugurations a hot topic so far in 2017 I drove for more than six hours from Perth to attend Prince Graeme’s special day, to be held in Princess Shirley’s Chapel of Nain at the Principality.

A crowd of around 80 packed the chapel to witness some obscure as fuck history, and they weren’t disappointed. The chapel itself was a heavily religious affair, dominated by paintings of Jesus and crucifixes and blue glass windows a friendly local told me were imported from Italy some years ago. It’s said when closed the glass cools the chapel to the point where the blistering heat outside is barely noticeable. Today the windows were open. The carpet, we were told during the proceedings, is a remnant taken from Buckingham Palace some years ago following a fire. The carpet is red.

Following the Hutt River national anthem, Keith Kerwin’s It’s a Hard Land, and some final recognitions from Prince Leonard the transition is formalised. Prince Leonard’s famous red robe is handed over to Prince Graeme, whose less famous green robe is removed.

The new leader is handed a ceremonial sword and baton, the significance of which is unclear, before posing for photos and inviting guests down to the Hutt River tea room for curried egg sandwiches and cake.

In between, Prince Graeme tells local media of his plans to expand the population of Hutt River. At present it stands at around 30 but feasibility studies suggest it can sustain somewhere in the order of 20,000. He talks legalities – the ATO is currently chasing $2.6 million from the Principality, a request they unsurprisingly intend to fight. Mention of his late mother, Princess Shirley, invokes an emotional pause – it’s clear that the occasion is deeply personal to the Casley family.

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The princes address the media.

Before long the press conference was over, formalities were finalised and the gowns removed. As we walked toward the tea room I asked Prince Graeme if he had a moment to sit down for a chat. He obliged, and the two of us ended up back in the chapel. Prince Graeme was thoughtful and candid.

DIPLODOPEST: You’re the first generation to have grown up in Hutt River. What was it like being a teenager and growing up as part of the Principality?

Prince Graeme: We had a house in Perth where we did our schooling, and that was very much normal, run of the mill schooling. But on holidays we’d come back to the Principality and enjoy the farm life of freedom and go venturing and help out with sheep work when you needed to. The unique part for me was as a 13 or 14 year old having media interviewing mum and dad in the living room, from Australia’s Women’s Weekly or BBC. I didn’t realise it at the time but when I’ve looked back my world view grew very quickly just by listening to people and seeing where they come from and what’s happening in other parts of the world. Perth being a very isolated capital, it would have taken many more years to form that big of a world view.

Did it affect your friendships and relationships with people?

The close friends became closer and I still treasure them. People one or two steps removed didn’t seem to understand or didn’t read the history, or hadn’t met mum and dad to know what it was all about. You learn to just be tolerant of them and brush it off. They don’t quite understand where we’re coming from.

Coming home as a teenager and being told your property was going to secede and form its own sovereign identity must have been quite a shock. Was it something you immediately embraced?

It was a shock, but because dad is such a studious person and was doing so many hours in his study on gravity and planetary interactions, we knew he had purpose and a reason why. When he said the farm was at risk from wheat quotas and we needed to secede to protect the property it was accepted that that was the only alternative. He would have thought of other choices if he could. It was very left of centre but it was the only option and I trusted and believed in dad’s understanding of what he was doing.

Has it always been your goal to one day lead the Principality?

Not at all. Since coming back here three years ago and doing a lot of the behind the scenes work, I realised I wanted to do my best to keep Hutt River going. We knew the inevitable would happen with dad and there’d be some sort of change. My natural instinct is to step back, but after these three years seeing dad’s health deteriorate and being given such tutorage it was a natural progression to step forward.

You haven’t always been in Hutt River? What were you doing before you came back?

I was a primary school teacher with the Western Australian Education Department. I travelled the state in that role, but when mum passed away three and a half years ago I retired out of there and came here full time.

Hutt River has a very complex relationship with the WA government – was there any moral conflict for you as an employee of the state government during your time as a school teacher?

It did in the beginning, but I learned to fly under the radar. I paid my taxes on money earned and I was loyal and did my duty for the department, and I also stepped forward and did seminars and workshops for teachers. I felt justified that I wasn’t sneaky or underhanded, I was up front and I paid my expenses and dues as required.

Do you consider yourself an outsider when you venture outside the Principality and into Australia?

Absolutely. Every time I drive out I think I’m going on a journey. Even though it’s a short drive and the roads are the same as our roads it does feel like you’ve entered a slightly different country. I have friends and family in Perth, when you actually touch base face to face with them it’s a lovely feeling of ‘gosh I’ve come that distance’. It is 500km to Perth so that physical travel certainly makes you feel like you’ve come from somewhere else to meet family or do errands.

People outside of Hutt River may consider this to be a bit quirky, or kind of a novelty. Can you see that side of it as well?

Of course. Growing up and living and having had friends have a bit of a dig you get an idea of it. If I was outside the family looking in, it’s certainly a very different and left of centre answer to a problem. I guess that’s the beauty of being right in the middle – you have that understanding of why things happen. A big part of my day is to meet and greet the many visitors that come, and they come with interest and curiosity but some have a bit of a banter about them, where they want to sort of say things like ‘it’s just a tax jaunt’ or ‘crazy, eccentric farmers’ or something. You accept that, you have to be tolerant of people. They don’t fully understand, or want to fully understand. We’ve always been open and speak from our heart.

What’s going to be the hardest part of following in Prince Leonard’s footsteps?

They are such big shoes to fill. He has such a depth of knowledge of constitutional law, he’s lived all those issues. When a new question comes forward or a new event he’s got all that history to relate it to and he can deliver on that. Like all of us when you come to a new job or new situation or you step up, you hope you can bring your skills and character to the things that have been done in the past and make them a bit better. Whilst I don’t have the depth of knowledge or law, I think I’ve got some other skills and dad has made that knowledge available to me so I can find the answers.

Are the robes a day-to-day thing?

They’re ceremonial. Purely ceremonial.

We headed to the tea room, where the mood turned from significant royal occasion to how I imagine a bowls club gala day would feel. On the cutting the cake a frail Prince Leonard, who is battling with emphysema, declared his thanks to a US-based medical machinery company which had donated a breathing apparatus to his cause. Everyone applauded. He and Graeme cut the cakes and everyone applauded again. It was a nice moment befitting of a very odd occasion.

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Prince Leonard with his cakes

On leaving I noticed a crowd of people around the door of the gift shop/post office. An important building where passports are stamped, visas issued and trinkets sold, the door had been locked from the inside and it was none other than Prince Graeme on all fours with a screwdriver, trying in earnest to wedge open the barrier between some international tourists and the many ceremonial stamps on offer at the Principality.

The door was eventually pried open and Prince Graeme was behind the counter, taking dollars (the Hutt River dollar is tied one-for-one with its Australian equivalent) and offering service with a smile.

All in a day’s work for the new leader of the Principality of Hutt River, I guess.

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Entering the Upside Down

Three full days have passed since the announcement of the Trump presidency, and In New York the topic still very much dominates conversation in the context of the media and on the streets.

The rallies in New York are reportedly ongoing, and though I’ve not personally seen these going on what I saw on Wednesday that’s hardly surprising.

I decided since my last post took perspective from an anti-Trump rally to explore the other side of the discussion. With this in mind I ventured again to Trump Tower.

Trump Tower on late Friday afternoon was a very different experience to Trump Tower on Wednesday night. Parts of Fifth Avenue were blocked – not by protesters as they were two nights before but by barricades set in anticipation. The police presence was strong as you’d expect, and curious passers-by congregated across the street to snap a photo or two.

At this stage of the evening – around 5pm – there was no yelling, no protesting and if you had reason to you could enter the tower itself. In this spirit I was feeling a little run down. There’s a Starbucks in Trump Tower.

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A slightly different story to Wednesday

Once past security – understandably stringent given the circumstances – being in Trump Tower felt like entering the ‘Upside Down’ in Stranger Things.

The building is unlike any other I’ve visited – floor to ceiling decked out in tones of bronze, with an internal waterfall flowing from an alfresco garden down several levels to a pond on its lowest level.

Past a solid media contingent who looked as though they’d been there for days was Trump Bar, exactly as it sounds, and down a corridor from this was the makeshift Trump Store.

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Trump Store was bustling– hats and T-shirts were walking out the door on the heads and backs of the president-elect’s supporters.

The mixed aged demographics probably shouldn’t have surprised me given the results of the election, but they did. There was plenty of younger people sporting Trump merch in the tower, along with some middle aged and older couples. Being Veteran’s Day it was easy to tell who of the building’s visitors had served, and clear that plenty had.

In that moment, and I can only speak for that moment, there was far less diversity in terms of race.

I talked to a couple visiting town for Veteran’s Day, who asked me to take their photo in front of the waterfall with their brand new Make America Great Again caps. I obliged, and asked how they were feeling post-election. They said it was one of the greatest things to have happened to the US. A passer-by nodded in agreement – few people there would have disagreed.

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Aside from coffee and drinking there’s not that much else to do at Trump Tower, so in the hope Trump would emerge from an elevator and do a flip or something I went and stood by the media contingent for a while, and we watched as people came in and out.

A lady walked past with four immaculately dressed kids, including three small girls with matching velvet bows and dresses. They were having a discussion about how cute ten-year-old Barron Trump is. From what I could gather one of the kids wanted to marry Barron, but another wasn’t interested at all. Groundbreaking.

I wish I had more excitement to share, but this is the gist of the whole experience. Conversation was civil, polite and Trump-centric. People came in and out of the lifts with a smile. Three of the building’s four lifts were decked in reflective bronze and indulgent marble. The fourth was a service lift –sterile and silver with a Trump campaign poster tacked to its back wall.

I bought my coffee and returned to the dimension I knew.

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The Ultimate Residential Building Worldwide

 

 

The kick-on

If the New York I experienced in the day following Donald Trump’s remarkable 2016 election win was a city quietly sobbing, by sunset said tears had turned to a uniform roar of anguish.

The protest – international news, no less – started at Union Square at 6pm and navigated some 40 blocks toward Trump Tower, picking up people along the way as it closed the city streets and took on a life of its own.

The chants reverberated through the night sky – ‘F**k Trump, Pence, Christie, ‘the wall’; Black, Latino, Muslim, gay lives matter; Pussy grabs back’ – a blend of the political and social and all expressing extreme distaste with Trump’s conduct and character.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe closer it got to the tower the more uniform the message. “We reject the president elect,” they shouted loud enough that surely, even from the top of Trump Tower, their presence would have been felt.

Little may come of these protests – not just in New York tonight but across the country – but as a fly-on-the-wall it felt like a moment in history, as though a collective had thrown its arms up in exhaustion at the prospect of its coming years.

I said in my earlier post that I didn’t feel things were different in the street during the day and I stand by that remark. While the people I saw on the subway and outside the tower by day were merely going about their day-to-day lives this was a congregation of the like-minded people whose displeasure at the election result was bolstered by energy of the pack mentality.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThey were primarily but not all ‘millennials’ (for whatever that term has come to mean – I’m talking people in their 20s and 30s). Age aside, the displeasure with target of the evening’s disdain seemingly transcended gender, race and sexuality – it was a united New York, but one united against the man self-tasked with making the nation great again.

I don’t personally want to delve into the politics of the situation – as a visitor that’s not really my place.

The reality remains that the United States has democratically elected Donald Trump as its 45th President.

What I can tell you is that a lot of people in New York City are disillusioned by the election of their hometown ‘hero’. From what I saw in the streets tonight I’d expect the distaste to last for some time to come.

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I was only there briefly but I took these pictures. The protests continue even now, and are expected to kick on through the night.

Also three posts in two days is too many but time sensitivity is important too, so provided nothing else remarkable happens (no promises) I’ll be toning it down a bit from here.

All photos by Jack McGinn. Please note that all views are opinion and guided only by personal experience as a traveller in New York City. 

The Hangover Pt. Trump

As they went about processing the shock results of last night’s election, the people of New York City woke to a blanket of thick, grey haze which absorbed the city skyline.

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Today vs yesterday (inset)

It’s seemed an apt shift from the blue skies of election day – where yesterday there was optimism of a Clinton victory, today there is cloudiness at the prospect of a Trump future.

For many in the US, the Trump future is the one they want. Pushing aside significant controversy, voters clearly engaged with the Republican’s rhetoric around a lost greatness, promises of a shift to greater control on borders and an anti-establishment movement. I saw a lot of people on social media ask if the people of the US learned anything from the Brexit – they clearly did, and they liked what they saw.

But for New York, a safe Democratic state, most signs suggested this was not a desired result.

I was at the Nets game in Brooklyn last night when the news started to trickle in that Clinton was in for more of a fight than earlier predicted. You could see attentions slowly turn away from the basketball as it went down.

Not even Ja Rule, who was in the crowd and they kept showing on the big screen for some reason, could bring people back to the game.

It was visible again today, in some of the eyes of those riding the subway, the quiet chatter of those looking for solace in the company of others and the occasional person verbalising their concerns to anyone willing to listen.

In the spirit of being a good journalist and a horrible tourist I did my best to seek out trouble and a story today where possible. Overwhelmingly though, it seemed remarkably similar to any other of the last few weeks.

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The media were out in force in NYC today.

The people

There was a lady at Myrtle-Wyckoff Station adamant that the decision to elect Trump would spark a civil war, but her views were largely ignored by a crowd which seemed more intent on quiet reflection than outward expression.

The destination was Trump Tower, where I figured there’d be someone doing something of note. Last night Lady Gaga was there in protest of the election result. Today it was surprisingly placid, though swarming with a significant police presence.

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A small group of younger people gathered out front in protest of Trump’s views on sexuality, abortion and gender. One tried to go to work but had to leave at her perceived injustice of the situation – “I told my boss I couldn’t just stand there and do nothing,” she said.

On the other side of the fence were Trump’s fans. Those who turned out seemed to be of various groups – there was Blacks for Trump, Jews for Trump and Christians for Trump – but there didn’t seem to be one united assembly of Trump fans gathered.

Regardless, the word from this side was that the nation had been saved at the hands of the election result the previous evening. The mistrust of Clinton was clear, and the desire to be removed from an establishment politician dominated discussion.

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One thing I’ve loved about watching the political debate on the street is the mutual respect New Yorkers have displayed for one another. The conversation can be heated, but not once have I seen it get personal or violent despite the size of the topics at play.

The politicians

In a nation of 319 million people stretched across 3.8 million miles of land I find it astounding that the presidential candidates could spend the evening just two blocks apart, but that’s exactly what happened.

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The cars await Hillary and her husband Bill (I got a photo of Bill’s arm but it was blurry).

While Trump was holed up in his namesake tower on the corner of 5th Avenue and 56th Street, Clinton spent her election night literally down the road at the Peninsula. They’re on the same street.

On the way to Trump Tower I noticed a crowd, and realised we were standing at the front of the Peninsula. Surely enough, within 10 minutes Hillary and Bill emerged and jumped straight into awaiting cars surrounded by a strong police presence. All things considered the crowd was pretty adoring of the Clintons as they left, and not long after she delivered a speech to fans nearby.

There was no sighting of Trump at the tower, but a large queue of garbage trucks filled with sand formed a barricade of their own on the street in front of the building. It was an unusual sight, but I suppose this is no orthodox politician.

The lesson learned

Every vote counts the same, and at the end of the day America democratically elected Donald J. Trump as its 45th President. Say what you will about the candidate and the motivations – racial, gender, ideological – of the people making this decision, this is democracy at work and the freedom the United States prides itself on.

Will he follow through on his campaign promises? No one really knows. Once the fog clears I suppose we’ll have a better idea.

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Garbage trucks guard Trump Tower in New York the day following his election as US President.

All photos by Jack McGinn. Please note that all views are opinion and guided only by personal experience as a traveller in New York City. 

An Australian take on US Election Day

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Barb scandal aside I felt the Demogorgon ran a strong campaign

Sitting in a rented bedroom in Bushwick my view of Manhattan is somewhat obscured by the neighbouring flats and homes. You can see one building comfortably – One World Trade Center – and that’s hardly surprising since it’s the sixth largest building in the world.

Every other day of my time in New York I’ve been motivated to leave and explore as much as possible. As a visitor today is no different – there’s no shortage of things to do and see – but with the election in full swing I’m feeling more inclined to take in that limited view, itself hugely significant and symbolic, from the comfort of said bedroom.

As an Australian passing through its been interesting to watch and listen to New Yorkers as they live through the most divisive election experiences in recent decades. The candidates have strong ties to NYC – Trump was born and raised in the city, and Clinton was its first female Senator and lives around 30 miles north of the big smoke.

Since I’m not voting in the election my political views don’t really matter on this one, but having talked to people on the ground I figured I’d share some insight and comparison based on my Australian voting experience.

  1. Election Fatigue

When Australia voted in a double dissolution election earlier this year it came on the back of a campaign of around two months, and needless to say by the end of it we were all pretty tired of hearing about Turnbull’s privilege and Shorten’s lettuce preferences by the end of it. By contrast, Clinton and Trump announced their campaigns for presidency three days apart in June. June 2015. From the initial campaigning for their respective party tickets to now the American people has sat through some 18 months of political talk and speculation, commercials, accusations and scandals. The majority of everyday people I’ve spoken to in New York just want it to be over, and it’s not hard to see why.

  1. The voting system

Australians are required by law to vote, but Americans are not. As a consequence while there are people who vote in every election there are scores of people who need to be convinced by one candidate or another that it’s worth their time and effort to turn out on election day (a Tuesday and not a public holiday, by the way). I haven’t been here long enough to establish a strong opinion on it but I’m sure this would have an influence on the candidate rhetoric and where they target their campaigns. I’ve seen reported that early figures suggest a strong Latino voter turnout – I have my theories but where this significant minority vote will go and what motivated the strength of numbers remains to be seen. It also probably clouds the reliability of polling – no one really knows who will turn out on election day.

As an aside, when I told one guy that Australians were required to vote he insisted that was undemocratic. I’d never really thought about it.

  1. Celebrity endorsements

Perhaps this is another consequence of the voluntary voting system, but it seems to really matter to people which way their favourite celebrities vote. The Clinton campaign has called on Beyonce and Jay-Z this week and appears to be more popular with entertainers of this ilk. I had an interesting conversation at the ice hockey of all places with a builder from upstate, who told me he liked Billy Joel’s philosophy on political endorsement – “who cares about the opinions of a piano player”. As an outsider it is interesting that the lines between the celebrity and political realms do appear somewhat blurred – I can’t imagine Barnaby Joyce calling on Flume for an endorsement anytime soon.

Whatever happens with the vote today and politically in the coming months, the heart of New York City seems entirely likely to continue ticking as it has done for years to come.

I’m grateful to have visited at such an interesting point in its story.

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Today

The three week window

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Dad-pumpkin with the jokes.

Two-hundred-and-fifty-nine days have passed since I booked this trip to the United States, and only six remain before it becomes a reality.

When I booked the sole plan was to visit Mac DeMarco and write a great story worthy of peoples’ time. I’ll always hold out hope for the DeMarco plan, but at this stage it seems far more likely to be a three-week stay in NYC.

Fortunately for anyone travelling to this part of the world there never seems to be any shortage of things to do, but this particular trip coincides with some pretty cool events which I’ve detailed below.

Halloween, October 31

The spo0o0o0o0o0okiest time of the year, and while it’s kind of a small deal in Perth I’m told New York goes all out for Halloween. I’m a little stuck for costume ideas and likely to be extremely jet-lagged, but it’s still shaping up to be the realest Halloween ever.

Early costume ideas – Clippy from Microsoft Word; the dancing pumpkin from that viral video; Bookface; Australian. All so spooky.

New York Comedy Festival, November 1-6

I had no idea when I booked the trip, but there are some world class acts taking to the stage for New York Comedy Festival. I managed to get a ticket to a returned soldiers’ benefit featuring Bruce Springsteen, Jerry Seinfeld, Louis CK and Jon Stewart on the same bill at Madison Square Garden. It’s going to be the most patriotic, American thing ever and I really can’t wait to see it.

Seu Jorge David Bowie Tribute, November 12

The Life Aquatic is one of my favourite films, and the prospect of seeing Seu Jorge perform the soundtrack in tribute of David Bowie’s passing feels like one of those once-in-a-lifetime type deals. “Had Seu Jorge not recorded my songs in Portuguese I would never have heard this new level of beauty which he has imbued them with.” – Bowie. This is gonna be really cool.

Book, Oct 28-Nov 16

In spite of everything I just said I think the thing I’m most looking forward to is sitting somewhere and reading a book. The thought of being an anonymous person with plenty of time in a city of millions going about their day-to-day is real drawcard.

And of course…

The US Election, November 8 make-america-great-again

Say what you will about the candidates and all the rest, this is one of the biggest political
events the world has seen in quite some time and I’m really excited at the prospect of being in the States as America votes. I’ve spent the past four months trying to work out if it’s OK to ironically buy a Trump campaign hat as a souvenir. It’s a real ethical dilemma.

 

The other cool thing to come of the trip is this blog.

It’s been a while since I’ve been motivated enough to write in my spare time and I’m finding it really rewarding. Thanks to all of the people who have shown support so far, and I look forward to keeping you posted on the NYC happenings and beyond.